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Everest North Col Expedition (Spring 2008)

Everest North Face TibetThere is probably no other country in the world that arouses as much curiosity as this vast expanse of myth and religion known to the world as Tibet. Steeped deep in religious mysticism and ancient practices. In Tibet each mountain has its own story and each story is the quintessence of fortitude and steadfastness, a quality that the denizens of the land hold most precious. Share these immortal moments with the mountains and its people. Everest in Tibet straddles the east section of the Nepal/Tibet border, with its northern side lying in the Tingri Country. Before 1949 all approaches had to be made from Tibet as Nepal was closed. Once the latter opened its doors that of the former were shut. It was only in 1980 that Tibet was reopened for expeditions and with that a whole new world of exciting opportunities unfolded. Since the earliest Himalayan expeditions the North Ridge has represented staggering achievement. It was this side of the mountain that the pioneering British expeditions of the early 1900's had come. Reinhold Messner had this to say. "......the north side of Everest was to me one of the most historic and interesting places of all".

 

We set up our camp at Chinese Base Camp and stay two nights or more and it depends on our members feeling. We also make schedules of the yaks by that time. Base camp and advance base camp fixed at the different places are kept there permanently until finishing the whole expedition. Now 2 days walk towards the ABC starts from here.

After walking 2 days, we reach to ABC 6400m along with the Yaks. From ABC, the route goes to the east Rongbuk (Everest Base) glacier and after that there is an easy snow slopes to the North Col at 7000m. Where camp 1 is situated on snow
After that there is a long reasonably angled snow slopes to climb 7400m. Where we should put camp 2 on snow, the route from Camp 2 to camp 3 is the series of the rocks, which is a little bit difficult. But again there is a very easy terrain to walk ahead to set up camp 3, This camp 3 is at the height of 7900m on the rock.

The route again goes through a series of rocky climbs, and then there is a median angled snow slopes where we have to climb on mixed rocks and snow until we reach camp 4 at 8400m. Now this camp is on the rock but some times ago, it was covered by snow. To reach there, we have to fix the ropes on climbing but there are safety lines, which provide you safe place when you are tired and the wind seems windy to blowing there . This route is mostly very windy especially between Camp 2 to camp 3

Camp 4 is the last camp for Everest summit from North East Ridge . Now the route is mixed with rocks and snow steps. This step is quite steep in many places so you require very considerable care for yourself, to your clothing and oxygen equipments.
After that, the North East Ridge is wide but we have to climb through small steps with a little bit height until we go ahead where we fix the rope. Above there the climbing is a little bit exposed but it is easy again to reach ahead in the second steps. After the second steps the route is in the series of small nude ridge, which is some times covered with snow.
After that route with large boulder where we should use ladder to climb ahead, Again after that section of the route, we should fix the rope. Above these steps, the route is relatively easy with gentle ground until we reach at the third steps. Now to go head it is not the series of ridge as the previous steps but we should use the fixed rope to the Col before the final summit of snow slopes. Again there are quite steep and fixed ropes to go ahead to the buttressed rocks from where there is a short section of corniced ridge to reach on the Summit of Everest.

Climbing Sherpa guide for Himalayan:

We facilitate highly professional, well trained and qualified climbing Sherpas for your expeditions. Many climbers avoid Sherpa guides for the climbing, so because of this, they have been found to facing many hindrances on their way. If you take Sherpas along with you on the expedition, they are very useful in your each and every step of support, which makes your climbing easier to restore your strained energy; and it gives you vigorous strength for your next day's climbing. Most of the groups, who have gone with the Sherpa guides on the expedition, are found to be succeeded as per our past experiences. So we suggest you to operate your expeditions along with the Sherpa guides.

 
Climbing History Equipment List Recent Route
 
 
Departure Dates
Itinerary :
  Day 01 Arrive Kathmandu & transfer hotel
  Day 02 Kathmandu
  Day 03 Kathmandu
   Day 04 Drive Zhangmu,
   Day 05 Drive to Naylam,
   Day 06 Rest Day for Acclimatized
   Day 07 Drive to Tingri
   Day 08 Rest Day for Acclimatized 
   Day 09 Drive Chinese Base Camp,
   Day 10 Chinese Base Camp 5400m.
   Day 11 Chinese Base Camp
   Day 12 Chinese Base Camp to Middle Camp load carry by Yaks, [ Middle Camp ]
   Day 13 Middle Camp - Advance Base Camp of Everest 6400m. [ ABC ]
  Day 14-65 Climbing Period of Everest 8848m. 
  Day 66 ABC - Base Camp
   Day 67 Drive to Zhangmu
  Day 68 Drive Zhangmu to Kathmandu.
   Day 69 Kathmandu
  Day 70 Final Departure
 
 

Cost: Group join basis (Minimum 6 pax)

Per Person US$ 6,500.00 Permit fee
Per Person US$ 5,000.00 Expedition Package

Climbing Sherpa, Per Sherpa is US$ 4,000.00 (If required)

 
  Cost Includes
 
  • 5 nights accommodation in Kathmandu with bed & breakfast (3 star hotel).
  • Expert professional Nepalese expedition crews like Cook, Kitchen boy, ABC guide and mountaineering gears till to the ABC are provided; and our crews get all expedition facilities from our office itself.
  • Tibet visa & Travel Permit for the expedition crew
  • Full board hotel in route to Tibet side Zhangmu, Nyalam,Tingri (bed & breakfast, Lunch, dinner)
  • Base Camp - Advance Base Camp 1 tent for 1 person (North Face brand)
  • Dining tent, Table, Chairs, toilet tent, Mess tent & Kitchen tent
  • Per person's (50 KG) Load is carried by the Yak till to the from Base Camp to Advanced Base
  • Per person's (40 KG) Load is carried by the Yak on the way back to the ABC to the BC
  • Kathmandu - Zhangmu - Base Camp - Zhangmu (vice versa) are provided the Mini bus/Jeep for the members & Truck for the equipment [ Mini-Bus, Jeep & Truck].
  • Peak permit for North col Everest 8848m.
  • Tibet Visa & Travel permit
  • Liaison officer & Interpreter
  • Nepalese crew' insurance
  • ABC - Emergency Oxygen, Mask & regulator.
  • Satellite phone (Pay call).
  • Welcome dinner.
 
  Cost Excludes
 
  • Air travel to and from Kathmandu.
  • Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu.
  • Laundry, postage, telephone calls, and all other items of personal nature.
  • Entry visa and Re-entry visa for Nepal.
  • International departure tax.
  • Personal Expenses.
  • Medical and rescue insurance.
  • Personal Climbing equipment.
  • Bar bills & Beverage.
  • Medicine and first aid expenses
  • Garbage Deposit USD 500 (Sharing of the total person) Deposit fee will be not refund if clients (climber) don't take back their garbage.
  • Walkie-Talkie.
  • Extra yak, Per Yak's USD 150.00 will be charge till to 40 KG load.
 

Recommendation : After the Expedition, Tipping system is well come for expedition crews from your generosity   if you are happy with the staffs of the company. We wish you a happy and successful climbing.

 
Extra serice if required:

Russian oxygen 4 litters: US$ 400.00
Mask & Regular: US$ 400.00
Satellite phone: US$ 700.00 per set (Personal use from climber)
Film Permit : US$ 30000.00 (Small Portable movie camera is free)
Duty Jeep : US$ 5000.00
Rescue Jeep : USD 700 Per Jeep
 
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