Makalu 8,463m. Expedition (Autum 2008)
Fixed Departure in August/September 2008
Makalu is the fifth highest mountain in the world which lies in Nepal and South side Tibet. It is around 22 km east of Mt. Everest. Its size alone is impressive, but its perfect pyramid structure with four sharp ridges makes this mountain all the more spectacular. Makalu is actually a double peak.
The name of the mountain was probably taken from the Sanskrit word Maha-Kala, which means Big Black and is a by-name of Shiva - one of the most important gods of Hinduism. Shiva is sometimes an evil, cruel destroyer but at other times he tends to be gentle and kind-hearted. The mountain has another name in the local dialect - Kumba karna, which means The Giant.
In 1954, First attempts of ascents: American mountaineers leaded by W. Seyra climbed up to 7100 m via the Southern ridge. Britain mountaineers reached 6 500 m in the direction to the North col. French mountaineers reached North-East summit of Makalu 7600 m.
In 1960 a large scientific and mountaineering expedition wintered at the foot of mount Ama Dablam, occupying the Green and Silver buts. In May 1961, the expedition trekked across the Mingbo La and other high passes to the foot off mount Makalu , where they planned to climb the French route, Sickness stopped the expedition, which became a heroic struggle for survival.
The Japanese climbed mount Makalu in 1970, another French team climbed it in 1971 and a Yugoslav expedition reached the summit in 1975. In 1976 Spanish and Czechoslovakian teams joined up near the summit.
Makalu West Face
It is very adventurous route to climb because it is a little bit dangerous as well. The 5 attempts were made before climbing this Mount Makalu Mountain ; then only it was succeeded in the final.
The West Face was successfully summit in 1997. The Russian expedition had taken the route of this West Face of mount Makalu, leaded by Sergey Efimov and climbed the top on 21st of May via the most difficult route. The last part of the route had gone on Parago ridge. Alexei Bolotov, Yuri Ermachek, Dmitri Pavlenko, Igor Bugachevski and Nikolai Jiline had climbed on the top of mount Makalu at this time For this ascent they were awarded the "Gold ice-axe".
The climbing routes are consists of 4 parts:
The bottom part starts from the base of the West Face at 5,800 meters and climbs to the hanging ice-fall at 6,100 meters to the right part of the ice-fall. The second part extends from the plateau above the ice-fall along 35 to 45 degree elevation's rock up to the 6,500 meters high. The next section is an ice-rock wall, 50 to 55 degrees steep & that extends to 7,400 meters height. The last final section begins 70 to 75 degree elevation's rock pillar, which leads to the west ridge at 8,000 meters height till to the top of the summit.
Ropes are typically fixed from 5800m to 6100m and from 6500 m to 7500m. Camps established by the Russian Team were at the following locations.
The French Route on the West Pillar is an aesthetically stunning line that has been seldom attempted. It is an exceedingly difficult, a very steep pillar that was first successfully ascended in 1971. The crux of the line comes at approximately 7,600m in the area of the Seignior Wall.
The first US team to summit was in 1980, they summit via this West Pillar Route . The team was made up of Jim States , John Roskelley, Kim Momb and Chris Kopczynski. They summit 2 members of the team and put 2 members within 150 feet. They summit without the use of oxygen or Sherpa support.
Makalu has proved to be a challenging climb, as only five of its first sixteen attempts were successful. To date, there have been a total of 206 successful ascents of Makalu and a total of 22 fatalities. There have been no known winter ascents of this peak.
Briefing in Ministry of tourism prepare for expedition
Day 04:
Fly to Tumlingtar - camping
Day 05:
Tumlingtar - Kuwapani
Day 06.
Kuwapani - Chichila
Day 07:
Chichila - Num
Day 08:
Num- Seduwa
Day 09:
Seduwa - Tashigaun
Day 10:
Tashigaun - Khongma La (Danda)
Day 11:
Khongmadanda - Mumfuk
Day 12:
Mumfuk -Yangle Kharak
Day 13:
Yangle Khark -Merak
Day 14:
Merak -Sersung (half day rest) for acclimatize
Day 15:
Sersung - Makalu Base camp
Day 16-47:
Climbing Period for Makalu (8463m)
Day 48:
Makalu BC - Mumbuck
Day 49:
Mumbuck - Khongma La (Danda)
Day 50:
Khongma La - Seduwa
Day 51:
Seduwa - Chichila
Day 52:
Chichila - Tumlingtar
Day 53:
Tumlingtar - Kathmandu by flight
Day 54:
Kathmandu
Day 55:
Final Departure
Cost:
1 Person, USD 25,000.00
2 Persons, Per Person USD 14,000.00
3 Persons, Per Person USD 12,000.00
4 Persons, Per Person USD 10,000.00
5 Persons, Per Person USD 9,000.00
6-7 Persons, Per Person USD 8000.00
8-12 Persons, Per Person USD 7,000.00
Climbing Sherpa guide, Per Sherpa guide USD 2,400.00
Cost Includes
5 Nights accomodation in Kathmandu with bed & Breakfast- hotel 3 star
Permit fee of Makalu 1-8463m Expedition
Food for Trekking and Expedition period for Makalu
Staff: Base camp Guide , Cook, Cook helper
Porter from Tumlingtar to Base camp & Base camp to Tumlingtar
Kathmandu -Tumlingtar - Kathmandu flights with Cargo 50 KG Per member
Equipment allowance, daily allowance for Liaison officer, expedition crew
Insurance for Nepalese expedition crew.
1 tent for 1 person for Base camp of Makalu
Mat, dining tent, Toilet tent, Mess tent, Store tent, Table and chairs trekking for the expedition
Local transportation in Kathmandu (Airport-hotel-airport)
Emergency Oxygen -Mask and regulator
Satellite phone (Pay calls)
Fare Well dinner
Cost Excludes
PERSONAL equipment for climbing & trekking
Personal & medical Insurance of expedition
Climbing food, Gas & stove above Base camp
Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu
Emergency Rescue evacuation by helicopter in case needed
Walki Takie permit & Satellite phone permit
Oxygen & Mask -regulator
Personal expenses
Bar Bills & beverage
Garbage Deposit USD 3,000.00 (Sharing of the total person) and Deposit fee will be not refunded if the
Recommendation : Tips after expedition are recommendation on the basis of happy. Additional services above base camp upto high camp from qualified high camp of Sherpa and cook if required will be provided. The custom Clearances in Kathmandu airport will be manage upon the request.